Reviewed by Nancy Snipper
The spacious outdoor tables (seating capacity of 80) are filled with diners eager to taste the dishes of the hotel’s brilliant chef, Francisco Rosco. Here, for the past 13 years, he’s been creating Mexican dishes that dazzle the taste buds. And before this, he left his culinary imprint in several of Mexico City’s finest restaurants.
Chef Fransicso’s creative culinary talents highlight two prize personal ingredients: passion and joy – not to mention his humour; it’s as notable as Doña Prudencia’s menu.
Inventive and utterly daring, his seasonal menu manifests this artistry. Twenty-six terrific offerings immortalize mouthwatering appetizers – including 3 different ceviches, salads, savoury soups, seafood, meat and chicken wonders. And all are brimming with his stylistic penchant for Mexican fusion. The bilingual description for each dish reads like a mini gourmet novella and many are titled with Mexican moniker place names. Take for instance, chicken Atlixco (Puebla) which features chicken breast fillet stuffed with cheese, mushrooms, with poblano sauce. The beef fillet, rib eye steak and his prize tuna offerings are stand-outs.
I started with a perfectly mixed pina colada. I ordered the tortilla soup Malitzin – this is the authentic Pre-Hispanic soup’s name. Its stunning orange colour was totally pleasing. Buttery in taste – yet there was no butter in it – I noted the cheese flavours, avocodo bits, tomato, garlic and onion with little pieces of tortilla that soaking up the soup’s flavour. Oh my! It was the finest, most delicate tortilla soup I have ever had.