Thursday, 26 February 2015

El Rinconcito





A Remarkable Restaurant

by Nancy Snipper

It’s one of Colonia San Antonio’s  best places to eat because it’s run by  Miguel and Mercedes Ramirez – a couple who knows how to make Mexico’s favourite dishes that are ever so yummy. After all, between them, they have over 33 years of cuisine savvy, having worked in restaurants in San Miguel itself.
Set in a cozy open-air stone patio with an interior section warmed by a fireplace, El Rinconcito – now 16-years old – offers all kinds of homey fare cooked and grilled in front of the cute tables that are always full of locals and foreigners feasting on meals that totally tantalizing.  It was one of Toller Cranston’s favourite places for palette pleasure.
The menu offers all kinds of fajitas, quesadillas and burritos, but clients also love Rincocito’s grilled chicken, seafood & meat combo (their shrimp is a stand-out in a variety of flavours. Want to eat pineapple kabob, charro beans, and some veritas vegetarian delights, then, this is the place to go. No matter what your yen is, all the dishes they prepare are fabulously fresh, uber-tasty and guacamole gorgeous. Know that they even slice strips of dough for their tortilla and taco numbers. No pre-cooked food here.
I totally went gaga over their garlic, cilantro and mixed herb dressing. It’s so popular, people can buy it for their own kitchen cuisine meals. It was as green as any salsa verde.
I ordered the Fajita salad that filled a huge plate. Beef, lettuce, avocado, cheese and tomato colourfully dressed up the huge plate. It was so healthy and delicious.
Of course, I had to order a Margarita. Wow!
 I appreciated the fact that on the menu written in big letters is this: “We only use purified water and we disinfect all vegetable and fruits.”
I have to admit, that it is the first question I habitually ask when I eat in a Mexican restaurant. How nice to know that El Rinconcito not only takes care of feeding us wonderfully, but knows that Montezuma’s revenge is on most travelers’ mind.
I would be hard pressed to find any neighbourhood restaurant as charming as El Rinconcito’s food is famous.
Find them at #7 Refugio Norte, in the authentic, Mexican neighbourhood of San Antonio. 


Call (415) 154-48-09.  Also find them on Facebook.

Sunday, 22 February 2015

Fonda San Miguel (San Miguel de Allende)





reviewd by Nancy Snipper

A buffet that fills you up with a variety fresh Mexican fare

It’s a seven-year-old spacious restaurant and bar housed in a colonial style huge former house. I loved the buffet spread Fonda offered. Each dish was freshly cooked and covered. Ten super typical Mexican dishes lined up on the table cloth like a Can Can cuisine show. There were three soups: pasta, chicken and the famous Pazoli with pork, chili and corn.
I dug into the buttery linguini resembling spaghetti Alfredo. It was fabulous. I filled my plated with breaded tender sea bass, the colourful picadillo dish of carrots, bits of ground beef, zucchini, tiny cobs of corn – all in a spicy tomato sauce with a tinge of tyme flavouring and more. I enjoyed its delicate flavour.
 I couldn’t get enough of the frijoles, and despite their salad buffet boasts all kinds of greens and macaroni bathed in mayonnaise with bits of chili – I knew the hearty food is what I wanted.
 Desserts consisted of flans and jellos in glass dishes sealed at the top. They had their own showcase. Sweet! I could not resist.


Returned in February 2016 to the Best Buffet in San Miguel!
Beef in red wine, creamy spaghetti with ham, chicken in mustard, non-greasy breaded bass, fabulous pepper and bean salad, rice, caramel and strawberry flans and more.  Take your pick, then sit in Fonda’s huge dining room. The sweet waiters add to the informality of it all. The chef knows what he’d doing as does the owner, Nora Luz Garibaldi Mata.
Only 110 pesos (less than eight dollars). I love the high quality of the food and the variety.
 

The address is Hidalgo.  No 3 Planta Baja in the centre of town. 
Call + 52 (415) 154-8398. The buffet bonanza awaits you!



San Miquel's Café de la Parroquía Restaurant et Brasserie




by Nancy Snipper


Fresh Authentic Mexican Cuisine with French Flare


 First visit - Dinner



What an awesome place to satiate your senses, especially your taste buds. Three utterly appealing spaces including a century-old open patio whose centerpiece is a sculptured stone fountain comprise this 25-year-old highly popular breakfast, lunch and dinner restaurant. A flat Jalapa covering gives a fabulously airy feel reserved for daytime meals, and then a lovely cozy room dressed in colourful tablecloths over which is a gallery of French and Mexican posters houses diners.




Partly French bistro, partly Mexican homey, Café PerroquÍa offers delicious home-made, freshly prepared unpretentious traditional dishes that hit the spot in a charming setting.
Owned by French-born Francoise Troiani, the restaurant also benefits from daughter Valería who ensures your dinner is as delectable as your expectations are.
Still, being one to appreciate surprise, I was wowed by the menu’s interesting creative cuisine that included tasty beef, fish, chicken, shrimp, mussels and pasta fare flavoured and cooked in exciting ways to perfection. The signature serving words are: fresh and uncomplicated.  Such is the confidence that owner and chefs have – a belief that recipes handed down from the family, and modified with personal kitchen talent whose savoury je ne sais quoi culinary pizzazz never fails to delight the palette.
I was greeted with a tasty, non-greasy lemon pico de gallo – tomatoes and onions with tortilla chips, then hot bread and salsa verde striding fresh slices of avocado which gave new meaning to delicate taste. Before the main platter, I had the salad with a honey dressing and sliver-thin walnut bites. It was terrific. Two rondelles of soft, warm goat cheese on two pieces of bread sent me into salad heaven. Order this! The margaritas were magnifco!
I ordered the grilled flounder topped with parsley with green string beans and sautéed potatoes. Tender and tasty, this plate was filling. Neither greasy nor soggy, the flounder was melt-in-your-mouth yummy. Linguini accompanied the flounder and it was silky smooth with a faint buttery flavour.
Dessert was an embarrassment of choices. I can’t rave enough about the mango flan with strawberry sauce. It was made for Gods.  Don’t leave San Miguel without taking a bite into the homey true-flavour cooking of this comfortable and refreshingly inexpensive restaurant. 


Second visit - Breakfast


I loved dinner so much; I decided to go back for breakfast. Francisca, who comes from France, is the mother of Valeria. Her warmth and hospitality set the tone of great dishes to come. She heads the breakfast end of things – cuisine goodness that once again is the trademark of Café de la Parroquía. She’s been taking care of our morning hunger pangs since 1989!
This time I sat in the patio where all the morning goodies are served. I marveled at the cantera triple-tiered fountains adorned in flowers that put me in such a glorious mood to greet the morning and feast on the splendid menu choices.
I opened the two-page, easy-to-read bilingual menu, and at the top, I read the message: “Good Morning, Buenas Dias”.  How sweet!
What totally impressed me was the fact that among the 16 egg dishes, there was a superb offering of six different types of omelets.  But wait! Let’s not forget, we are in Mexico. There were chilaquiles al Horno (tortilla casserole in a special sauce), and more combos to choose from of the chilaquiles. There were endless enchiladas numbers, plus chiles rellenos (cheese stuffed in poblano peppers); three different varieties of tomales  – accompanied with red or green sauce; a triple choice of tantalizing tomales, including one variety served in their own corn shuck with beans and sauce. More awesomely appealing meals filled the menu – cuisine excitement that would keep any breakfast aficionado coming back on a daily basis.
I had this fantastic Booster drink that combined papaya, apples, spinach and honey just one of the four juice choices to wake you up. Then came the best green sauce I have ever tasted. This side garnish gorgeously featured avocados that only angels into celestial climes. Yummy! I ordered the fruit plate whose presentation could well have appeared in a still life Cezanne painting. I counted the following kinds of fruit, cut in wedges in these numbers:  5 banana and 3 strawberry slices, 9 papaya and 4 pear pieces,  8 cantaloupe cuts and 4 mangos in a mini line-up.
I love omelets, so I ordered the Huerta one. It featured a bounteous mixture of zucchini (I opted for that green instead of the broccoli), green peppers, mushrooms and onions – all perfectly nesting top and in a thin egg covering that hit the spot. No grease, no saturation of butter to hide the freshness and true taste of this outstanding omelet accompanied by sweet slices of tomatoes in a light Dijon cream dressing.
Next time I return, maybe, I’ll try the meatballs in chipotle sauce with white rice. Then again, I could just order the pancakes, yogurt, oatmeal and more!!
What a beautiful way to greet the morning: seating in the patio of Café de la ParroquÍa, pondering the wonders of San Miguel de Allende and its perfect places, such as this restaurant. 

The location is Jesús #11. Call +52 415 152-316


Monday, 16 February 2015

San Miguel’s Writer's Festival, 2015



      
 More Brilliant Than Ever

by Nancy Snipper

Into its 10th year of bringing the world’s greatest writers before you, including 7 keynote addresses, and 300 workshops led by over 55 seasoned writers and marketers  with whom you can hone your skills, and let’s not forget the excursions and fiestas – this year’s smashingly exciting conference  totally impressed me from the first day. The atmosphere was dynamic and exhilarating.

Famous writers, stimulating workshops, enthusiastic participants! 

Tracy Chevalier, author of “The Girl with the Pearl Earring” reflected the caliber of intellectual genius represented by the line-up of great authors. She delighted us with her reading from the famous novel that became a hugely successful movie. 

Tracy Chevalier
Ms. Chevalier spoke about history and the vital role it plays in her writing?   According to Ms. Chevalier, history allows us to come out of ourselves while giving us our roots and personal identities. We are formed by the past yet move beyond it into our own 3-dimensional personhood. A historical fiction writer, Ms. Chevalier leaves no detail unturned in her research.  Interestingly, she only became interested in history through a family reunion in which learned that her Huguenot heritage played a huge part in her family’s past perils: her grandparents escaped persecution in Southern France by fleeing to Switzerland.

Ms. Chevalier’s understated manner, nonetheless, could not hide her great talent to merge historical time frames into contemporary relevance.

Her unpretentious presentation, given in the huge ballroom of the lovely Minas de Real Hotel, displayed her unique gift of merging  academic flare with imaginative grit that fills her novels
The first workshop I attended addressed the topic of writing fiction based on real characters either alive or deceased. Presented by the soft spoken writer Rosalind Brackenbury who had us all writing about a person we know or have known and that obviously affected us so much that we wanted to write a novel in which they appeared. 


Rosalind Brackenbury
The dilemma of hurting those we know can be the outcome of such writing, but she encouraged us all to speak authentically within the fictional narrative.  It was a topic that hit close to home for me; my short stories have been inspired by persons I have known, but imaginative reinvention lies at the heart of all my fictional writing. 




This workshop emboldened me to keep on being courageous when it comes to creating characters – some formed partially from events or people who affected my own life.

Prior to the evening’s fabulous food and wine party of magnifico Mexican specialties – yes, the margaritas were moving into our mouths at a rapid rate – Alice Walker the controversial, Pulitzer Prize winner shared the keynote stage with lawyer and writer, Carol Merchasin who led the interview in a shared conversational format.

Alice Walker
Carol Merchasin
 Author of “The Color Purple”, Ms Walker spoke about genital mutilation (one of her causes célèbre), dodged the accusation she was anti-Semitic by using semantics to defend the attack on her regarding this issue; and she shared her views on how deeply insensitive and greedy the world has become. 

The diminutive author and activist stressed that we all must change – that we must listen and examine what we do and reflect deeply on our actions.

She discussed her own experience being the child of parents who lived a grueling life as share croppers. One theme that stuck with her was the necessity of honesty and that we are all children of God. How ironic that this feminist who celebrates women and stresses the need to listen to others abruptly left me when I approached her and began to share a small anecdote that I felt relevant to one of her key topics – racism.  She said, “I’ll be right back” (twice in fact). She never came back. So much for honesty.

I guess when you have 15 million books in print, you can do whatever the … you want.

Could this brilliant author of goddess-like stature actually be as normal and flawed as the rest of us are? I felt Ms Walker held intense anger deep within her – justified certainly with what she has endured: racism as a Black woman, abject poverty in childhood and having little money to raise her family; and as the recipient of both multiple awards and rejections for voicing her views – many too offensive or radical for Middle America and men of traditional bent - an inevitable hunk of bitterness sits in her delicate soul.  I was stunned by some of the outrageous statements she made and was even shocked at the black and white views she held that posed a dilemma for me: a mythical writer with myths of her own.
Gloria Steinem, co-founder of Ms. Magazine and founder of over 25 organizations dedicated to a myriad of issues related to women’s rights, is a gentle, loving brilliant woman who believes that the story – the narrative must start from the ground up in the way oral stories do in aboriginal cultures – that we are all from the same culture – that the story defines civilization not the invention of the wheel. Words must not divide or be exclusive to gender differentiation, politics and bi-partisan and opposing poles, such as black and white, feminine and masculine. She embraces a new norm – that there is no norm, and we must embrace this.

Now 81, this noble pioneer continues to spread her revolution of words. Beautiful, honest and humorous, Gloria Steinem is the original feminist who inspires all humans.


Gloria Steinen (photo by Sunday Wittie)


The Perfect Pitch Session That Sends Writers Into the Agent’s Den.

Louisa Rogers
Many of the keen-to-be-published participants signed up to give a pitch of their novel or screen play to one or more of the five agents the conference had invited. An invaluable workshop led by Louisa Rogers addressed all the pitfalls and common errors we make when we pitch our story. After outlining a format for presenting the proper pitch whose 12 points included the appropriate behavioral manner of presentation, Ms. Rogers got us into group of three to practice making the pitch – that defining moment that might get you signed on with an agent. Each one of us role played: we each had a go at pitching, being the agent, being a listener, and finally sharing our comments with constructive suggestions and feedback within our small group. 

Too much detail, rambling on, giving the hook in one or two sentences, forgetting to mention the genre it is and acting unnaturally were pointers we all benefited from.

I found I was a far better pitch adviser than a “pitcher”, but my two writing pals graciously let me know that I had engaged them fully. This workshop provided a clear guideline map as to content communicative tips for pitching to an agent face to face.  I decided to take the pitching plunge for my novel, “Floating on Lily pads”, and made appointments with two agents. Kimberly Cameron fit me in at the end of the day. But the rain created a move from the cold tent where pitches were taking place necessitated a speedy retreat into the noisy lobby of the hotel. Interruptions, and her husband showing up earlier than planned – to take her home, gave insufficient time; it was supposed to be 15 minutes. She did ask me to send 50 pages of my novel and also suggested a different title.

Kimberley Cameron was fun, but I seemed to be cursed with being the butt of unfinished conversations. 

I had better luck with the agent Melissa Fleishman out of New York who asked me to send the entire manuscript of my novel. One problem though: it isn’t finished!

Scott Turow, Richard Blanco, Angeles Mastretta, Jane Urquhart and Gloria Steinem also inspired us as part of the prestigious rostrum of keynote authors. Each one offered wit, honesty, humorous stories and insight into their own unique writing journey. Ms. Urquhart was as funny as any Stephen Leacock essay. Her self-deprecating humour was hilarious – proving Canadians have a laughable sense of self; she communicated this cleverly and eloquently.
As each of their personal stories unfolded, I realized how authentic these hard working visionaries are – that as exquisite masters of their craft, they continue to celebrate the infinite possibilities of a world through the printed word.

Their genius both confounds and inspires me to continue slogging away on blank pages my imagination feels compelled to fill.

One of the best panels comprised several writers who offered tangible tips on how to self publish. Each has formed their significant following of zillions of readers via all sorts of electronic media vehicles and clever strategies. 
 
Panel

These successful self-published authors which included, Judith Gille, Joseph Dispenza and Stephanie Bennett Voga mentioned several companies who specialize in creating and distributing your book. Almost all on the panel had indeed been picked up by agents or directly by a publisher due to the enormous number of readers they attracted. Their electronic platform was immensely invaluable for gathering “your tribe” – a term used by Ms Bennett Voga. Elance and fiverr.com can be invaluable for searching out people to do all the editing and cover work you need to create your book... Create Space can print on demand and Lightning Source can do multiple prints

All these writers have words to benefit the world. 

Mr. Dispenza has written several books, including one on a centenarian healer and another on eating properly while undergoing chemotherapy. Ms. Bennett Vogt wrote a book, called, “Your Spacious Self: Clear the Clutter and Discover Who You Are”  - picked up and released by Hierophant Publishing in 2012 several years after she had done her first edition by herself. Ms. Gille wrote about moving to San Miguel and how she awakened to her own transformation and a deeper sensitivity to Mexican culture and the country’s people.
One clear message highlighted by all on the panel was a poignant reality: the process does not stop after your book is done; next comes its marketing and readership growth.


It may take months to do the book, but now that the baby is born, one must nurture it and get it out there.

I so much wanted to attend Ms Gille’s workshop, titled, “The Nuts and Bolts of  Self-Publishing”, I had more questions regarding the topic. I had been successful in self-publishing my poetry/short story book,” Beyond The Dream: Epic Solitude”, but  now I wanted to move into the freedom of self-publishing my novel if no agent would represent me.

Mary Rose Hayes
I had to make a choice. I needed to know more about dialogue. I was finishing up my novel, and I really was in the dark about when and where to place dialogue.  Had I put in too much or too little? Mary Rose Hayes’ workshop was so instructive. She gave us examples of dialogue used to convey character and provenance, setting and conflict. I learned that showing – rather than telling – meant using becoming the characters as they speak. I learned that characters speaking to each other about others is a solid strategic tool used to reveal everyone’s personality, further the plot, and spice up the narrative.  In addition, she dealt with the issue of slang, dialect and accents, and techniques to use in order for the words to flow natural the page and hence to the reader’s eye (Phonetics was out; it is confusing to read). Then she asked for two volunteers to come to the front of the room. 

To my astonishment, I found myself standing in front of the participants with a tall man; both of us were requested to read out loud our respective role from Hemmingway’s novel, The White Elephant”. 

 
I got so much out of this workshop – the most important point being, I was telling too much rather than using dialogue to do it for me. 
Carol Cassella
That point was further honed in a workshop led by Carol Cassella. She clearly defined the roles for which details are most effective as written in her hand out:  to move the action, reveal character and, define the imaginary worlds created by fiction that got us writing about the use of details to describe setting, character and action responses. Again, the phrase – show don’t tell – was used, but this time it was description rather than dialogue that advanced the plot and the characters moving it. As in the dialogue workshop, she also gave hand outs – some including excerpts from various works, including, The Accidental Tourist”, and Charlotte’s Web.”  These passages illustrated how details can tell us so much.  Examples of non-purposeful descriptions were also dealt with. Avoid extraneous details.  

I also attended a panel animated by Canadian author, Jane Urquhart and writers, Tracy Chevalier from the United States, and Mexi.can-born, Pedro Angel Palou who now lives in the United States. He recently wrote a book on Poncho Villa. This illustrious panel’s title “Words for Peace”, addressed the topic of a book’s influence and impact factor on cultural change. 

“Any act of the imagination is a stroll across boundaries.
                                                                                                                  Jane Urquhart
 
Jane Urquhart
This stimulating discussion opined passionately on several topics: censorship, impunity, government corruption, lack of translation and a paucity of market exposure for non-English language books and the tragic situation of disappearance of writers in the Latin world, along with corruption was discussed by Mr. Palou. International PEN was referred to – one of the most important organizations protecting journalists and their rights. Many have been killed, including 14 from Mexico. San Miguel has its own chapter in PEN. 

Though laws are written to protect freedom of speech in most countries in the Western World, it became evident that impunity prevails hiding its face scarred in censorship.

Lightening the mood, I read my own poem called. “Our Vets Have Been Voided” – a poem that the Gazette newspaper in Montreal was going to publish, but censorship by one editor canned it, saying it was insulting our own government leader too strongly.  

Politeness seems to be a Canadian curse for some writers.

Isn’t it strange and ironic that I had the freedom to read the poem here in Mexico, but my own country, considered a crusader of free speech, vetoed its publication? (That poem is published on this blog as well as in my book mentioned in this article, and on Matters of Personal Interest).
God Bless the San Miguel Writers Festival for encouraging and offering such passionate support to all writers in pursuit of the freedom of expression – even if some of us are on the “wrong side” of political correctness. 

What must be realized is this conference is a vital liaison for many non-profit organizations dedicated to raising money for several outreach educational programs, such as Ojala niños.
Run by Elsmarie Norby, Ojala niños constantly helps children in literacy, health, creative development and many more invaluable programs.
Susan Page, Director of San Miguel Writers’ Conference & Literary Festival along with her amazing team of volunteers could all be heroes written about in a non-fiction work.



 Fiesta Time… Taking a Big Bite into the Enchilada!

Celebrating is a San Miguel specialty, and the festival fell right in step. Throwing a dazzling10th anniversary fiesta, the festival outdid itself with its amazingly huge party inside the high vaulted ceilings and stone walls of the Instituto de Bellas Artes. Wow! Dancers dressed in Aztec costumes, food that could have fed the entire state of Guanajuato, dancers gliding up and down the stairs and different halls resembled a Cirque du Soleil performance. A huge firecracker show with the gorgeous lit-up Parroquia Church glimmering in the background and Gigantes (tower-tall costumed stilt walkers) danced to the live music and the crowd joined them.
An equally humongous cake needed four of those dancing gals to carry it. I had blast, and I bumped into Kimberley again (remember that agent who had to rush off). Well, there’s nothing like a party thrown by the Festival to break the ice, and through the din of dancers and dynamic atmosphere, I completed my pitch, and this time, she asked for 100 pages. Such are the magnificent blessings of San Miguel brought to us all who have been lucky enough to participate in this astounding writers’ festival.

I took my final bite into the whole enchilada on February 15th.
I can hardly wait to taste next year’s serving to once again satiate the writer in me!     
          













Links to Charlotte Bell's photos for the  San Miguel de Allende Writers' conference.
Long version:
Short version: