Sunday, 15 March 2015

Donovan’s, San Miguel de Allende …

is Food and Chocolate Heavy

by Nancy Snipper

It’s not an Irish bar, but it was named by owner, Juan’s son who is autistic. To date, Juan still has no idea how his 20-year-old son got the name. But it works; there is a small back bar in the centuries’ old lovely stone restaurant. Now eight years young into serving fabulous international and Mexican fare, Donovan’s is so appealing in its casual manner that you will feel like you are stepping into family warmth.

The pastas are as stunning in variety and the pizzas equally so.  I ordered the jicama salad that featured, carrots, beet cubes, slices of the white radish-like non-tart jicama, pecans, slices of apples and more – all nesting nicely atop a fresh bed of lettuce. Like all dishes here, every dish is made on the spot as you order. The dressing was sensational: garlic, mustard and more made it addictive. It is a French recipe.
Then I dove into the chicken enchiladas. Spicy and hearty, yet the chicken inside my rolled enchilada was tender. Puree beans accompanied it all. This is true Mexican fare.  
Juan knows how to cook and he has taught chocolate expert, chef Benji how to make churros, tons of chocolate based drinks  with authentic flavours, such as vanilla, (chocolate is made right from the bean and rolled by hand into a metal container). Christian is the chef, and he’s a believer in robust cooking. He trained in gastronomy at the university here. This is not a fancy place; get hungry before coming here.
I would go back for the churros!

Make sure you talk with Juan and his two chefs; this is part of the Donovan experience.
The address is: #15 Hidalgo, just off the Jardin’s central square.  Call (154 7708)